Comments on: Mitsubishi WD-65831 “Air Flow” Problem

By: Bob

Bob — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:12:50 +0000

To view the TOTAL TIME for the set, press MENU on the TV’s controller. Once the menu appears, enter 2470. The total time in use will be at the bottom of the listing. Press EXIT to return to your program.

I do not believe the TOTAL TIME resets once a lamp is replaced, so it seems appropriate to notate the TOTAL TIME displayed whenever you replace a lamp. You will likely have to subtract that baseline number of hours from the set’s total time.

By: Riyad Kalla

Riyad Kalla — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:49:00 +0000

This might seem awfully amateur, but how do you check the lamp time? I’ve gotten into the service menu and done a particular key stroke set that I thought would bring it up, but it showed me 2547 3 months ago and I tried again recently and it was still 25xx-something, which just seemed way too low for a 3 year old TV.

By: Bob

Bob — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 16:45:45 +0000

Laverne,
Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America (MDEA) has extended the warranty on the heat sensor related repairs by an additional two years. Please contact them at mdeaservice@mdea.com for specifics to your TV model. If you are currently having problems, I would get in touch with them ASAP as it appears your purchase date may be approaching the end of the two-year warranty extension. You can also visit the SUPPORT web page at: http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/support.html Click on SERVICE & fill in your address to locate an authorized MITS service rep. They will be familiar with the terms of the warranty extension.

By: Laverne

Laverne — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 13:43:57 +0000

I have a WD-65732 (I bought it is in 11-2006) that the sensor was replaced in April 2007.How do you go about showing the extended warrany that i read about here, I have looked on the mitsubishi website site but see nothing cocerning the extended warranty for sensor,thanks

By: Bob

Bob — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 03:41:57 +0000

I just checked the runtime for the 65835 lamp – 5378 hours since August of 2008. (We DO watch a lot of TV) Seems like MITS has finally done something right.

By: Doug

Doug — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 17:59:41 +0000

Thanks guys for the answers. I watch a ton of tv, play xbox 360, and watch blurays. So I’m putting alot of stress on my lamps. But the longest I have gotten out of a bulb was a year and 4 months which given how much I watch tv, I was fine with that. Thanks again for the answers and thanks for keeping the forum going!!

By: Riyad Kalla

Riyad Kalla — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 13:27:56 +0000

Doug,

To addon to what Bob said (he’s the goto-guy around here) I’d also add that a 4-month lamp life in ANY configuration is too short.

Assuming you are a normal watcher of TV (not 10 hrs a day) 2 years would be short and 5 would be long… I’m most of the way through my 3rd year right now with my original WD-65831 on it’s original bulb and so far so good.

By: Bob

Bob — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 04:19:28 +0000

Doug,
All of the brightness & contrast settings (including Brilliant, Bright & Natural) are adjusted in the DLP chip settings – not the lamp. The lamp is normally operated at its standard setting. There is a service setting to increase the lamp output by about 5%, but the effect is to shorten the lamp life since that increases the lamp’s operating temperature. To answer your question: No – placing the system in Brilliant or Bright mode will not decrease the life of your lamp.

By: Doug

Doug — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 23:52:53 +0000

I had a question about bulb hours for my mitsubishi dlp WD57831 and I figured this was the place to come for answers. Will watching my DLP at the Bright or Brilliant setting make the bulb burn out quicker as opposed to the natural setting? The first bulb I had burned out in 4 months and I figured it was because the factory setting was on brilliant and I didn’t change it. Could someone give me a definate answer. Thank you!!

By: Marlin

Marlin — Sat, 31 Oct 2009 20:37:16 +0000

SO I bought a new lamp…my 3rd in like 2 years for my WD-Y65. I have had the lamp for like 3 months, and now my Lamp light is on. My TV will turn on for like 10 minutes at a time then picture goes out and my lamp light turns on again. I do not get the airflow issue message that I have gotten before. After waiting like an hour i can do it again. Which i can watch for like 10 more minutes. I don’t know what the issue is does anyone have any ideas or ways to fix? I wish that I had never bought this TV it has been more trouble than it has been worth.

By: jim

jim — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 06:00:05 +0000

i have a mitsubishi 62 inch wd62327 it runs fine for 3 hours or so then just shuts off the red status light comes on before it shuts off the fan sounds like its slowing down if i unplug it for for a while then turn it on it runs for a few hours then does the same thing please help

By: shell

shell — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 03:06:40 +0000

oops I mean the VS-55707 not 77707( must have had James Bond on my mind)

By: shell

shell — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 03:05:38 +0000

I am having similar problems with the VS-77707 MITs. Do you think he thermal sensor could be the problem with it shutting itself off?

By: Bob

Bob — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 00:58:04 +0000

Rob,
It is a fairly common mistake made by many engineers. They fail to read the note “NOT FOR STRANDED WIRE” in the crimp connector data sheets. Unless specifically designed to penetrate the insulation of stranded wire, most crimp connectors will have poor reliability and will likely fail with thermal cycling. Many crimp connectors for stranded wiring specifically require stripping the insulation and tinning the wires. They also may include a built-in strain relief shroud to minimize flexing at the crimp. It seems a bit excessive for such a small part, but those of us who experienced the failures would not call this excessive.

By: Rob

Rob — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 23:24:11 +0000

Thank you so much for posting this information! I don’t have a Mitsubishi TV, but I do have a BenQ MP512 projector, and it was shutting itself off. I opened it up and started looking around, tried fixing a few connections, but nothing seemed to help. The fans ran okay, so I couldn’t see why the projector was turning itself off. It wasn’t until I dug a little deeper and found the sensor that I found the source of the trouble. When I googled klixon YS11A95B, it led me to this blog. And sure enough, after removing the crimped connector and soldering the sensor wires directly to the PCB, the projector works perfectly!

By: Doug

Doug — Sat, 05 Sep 2009 19:04:16 +0000

Update. The repair guy just left. Took him all of 15 minutes to replace the sensor. I told him about the bulletin from Mitsu, and he said that he used to repair the sensor like that(soldering the wires). He said they figured out it wasn’t a conection problem, but that the sensor would trip the error message because it wasn’t rated very well. He said the updated sensor will not trip the error message. So if it’s true or not, I’m fixed!!! Back up and running!!! Thanks again to all on this site, if it weren’t for you all I wouldn’t have called a repair man in the first place!

By: Doug

Doug — Sat, 05 Sep 2009 17:57:00 +0000

I will do that. And if he insists on not soldering, I’ll call another repair service. Thanks for your help. I appreciate it! If I had any clue on how to solder, I would do it myself. Maybe its time to go to youtube.

By: Bob

Bob — Sat, 05 Sep 2009 17:47:49 +0000

You might mention to the repair guy that MITS has a service order published that instructs their authorized service personnel to solder the wires. (Presumably because of the wrong type of clips in the connector)

By: Doug

Doug — Sat, 05 Sep 2009 17:39:24 +0000

Thanks Bob! I think I’ll wait to see if the repair guy solders the wires. If not, then I will pick up a soldering gun and do it myself.

By: Bob

Bob — Sat, 05 Sep 2009 16:05:24 +0000

Doug,
The connectors that MITS used in the heat sensor path were not the correct connectors. The connector swaging mechanism is designed for solid-core wire. MITS used stranded wire. That essentially guarantees a high failure rate – particularly in a high thermal cycling environment. Knowing what I have found out about this connector, I would insist it be removed and the wires soldered together.

By: Doug

Doug — Sat, 05 Sep 2009 14:58:33 +0000

Hello all, this is a great forum to find out what happened to my WD57831. Like many on here I started getting an AirFlow blocked message. I used compressed air yesterday to blow out the vents, and it worked. At least until I turned it on this morning. I’m getting the same message, so I took off the back panel to clean out the tv. Same message comes up. I called a repair man, and he is aware of the problem and is scheduled to come out. I thought about fixin it myself, but decided I’ll wait for him. He stated that he wasn’t going to solder the connector, so if this happens again, I’ll call someone else or fix it myself. Thank you to all who posted in this forum for giving me direction on my problem. Although it would have been nice to have an excuse to buy an LED tv if mine required lots of money to fix. I’ll post an update when I get it fixed.

By: joikd

joikd — Wed, 12 Aug 2009 21:02:21 +0000

Whoops! Sorry, guys. I thought we were talking about the 65835.

By: Bob

Bob — Wed, 12 Aug 2009 13:43:49 +0000

joikd,
What exactly are you referring to with your “ADV” inputs? The 65831 service manual makes no reference to ADV inputs. In addition to the HDMI inputs, the service manual states:

VIDEO IN JACK (RCA Type)1.0Vp-p 75? unbalanced
AUDIO IN JACK (RCA Type)-4.7dBm 43k? unbalanced
S-VIDEO IN JACK (Y/C separate type)Y:1.0 Vp-p C:0.286Vp-p(BURST)75? unbalanced
COMP / Y, Cr, Cb (RCA Type)Y: 1.0 Vp-p Cr, Cb: 700mVp-p

By: joikd

joikd — Wed, 12 Aug 2009 03:28:06 +0000

Well, I suppose I could use my HTPC instead of the blu-ray player (no adjustments) to crank up contrast. But, I’ve always been under the impression that you’re not supposed to let an HTPC mess with anything. So, I may be screwed there. I was thinking that Mits. needs to release a firmware update to fix the problem. The other modes prove that the display is capable of putting out higher ftL, so if they just change the parameters of the ADV1 & ADV2 modes, it should work. Does that sound possible?

By the way, when I said “nobody seems to be talking about”, I meant everywhere–not just here.

Also, blue is way, way, way undersaturated. No amount of cranking color, PerfectColor, or ADV mode blue does anything except crank Y (well, maybe it raises blue a hair). The other colors are okay, though. I read that last year’s models had the same issue with blue.